ON MY BACKPACKING adventures, I’d always enquire among the well- travelled people I’d meet: “What’s the most beautiful country you’ve visited?” and so often, the answer would be Sri Lanka. But every time I was close to booking, there was trouble involving the Tamil Tigers. Earlier this year, I finally succumbed and booked the flights, and sure enough, the conflict intensified. But I went anyway, a little nervously, and I’m glad I did.

Since then, the Sri Lankan government has declared victory over the rebels after decades of bloodshed. The hope now is that the ending of the 26-year civil war will mean lasting peace and signal a fresh start for tourism in what is potentially one of the most attractive holiday destinations in Asia.

While the Department of Foreign Affairs and British Foreign Office continues to advise against all but essential travel to the north and east of Sri Lanka (the centre of the troubles) and common-sense caution when travelling elsewhere, for good measure I checked in with an old BBC colleague based in Colombo, who confirmed that sticking to the south, west and centre of the island – as we did – would ensure safety for travellers. In any case, it is always worth checking in with the Department of Foreign Affairs prior to travelling.

While the Sri Lankans badly need and deserve a lift right now, we could all do with a little serendipity in our lives these days. And if you make your way to this magical island of Serendib, you will find it in abundance. Steeped in the tea-warm Indian Ocean off the southeast coast of India, Sri Lanka really lives up to its name, which means “beautiful island” in local Sinhalese. Although best known as Ceylon, it was originally known by fable as the Kingdom of Serendip. And this remains the essence of modern-day Sri Lanka. It still feels magical and undiscovered, full of unexpected encounters, places and experiences.

Since the heady days of backpacking, I have to admit I’ve become very demanding. I want it all from my holidays. And as holiday time becomes ever more precious, I don’t want to just lie on the beach. I want tasty food, culture to bewitch and beguile, mesmerising natural beauty, accommodation with character and style, and, for even more indulgent moments, shopping and spa opportunities galore. And Sri Lanka has it all, except tourists – so go now.

Bone-shaking roads and nightmare traffic are on the list of authentic Sri Lankan experiences. Unfortunately, exploring this beautiful country is still best done by car and driver. My advice would be not to attempt too much, as too many bumpy rides could ruin your holiday. But have no doubt, it’s worth slogging it out to explore the country’s colonial and cultural heritage.

This ancient land is blessed with a slew of sites of amazing historical and archaeological significance. A mix of Buddhist, Hindu, Muslim, Christian and indigenous cultures have left their mark, and seven of these have made it on to Unesco’s list of World Heritage Sites: the sacred city of Anuradhapura, the ancient capital Polonnaruwa, the lion rock citadel Sigiriya, the caves of Dambulla, the Tooth Temple in Kandy, the Dutch colonial fort in Galle and the natural rainforest in Sinharaja.

You could spend weeks savouring these sites, but our time limits dictated we be selective, so we were whisked away from the teeming furnace that is the capital city, Colombo, and wound our way up towards Kandy in the centre of the country. This is exactly as I had envisaged colonial Ceylon as a child. Hill country, as its known, is a cool lush oasis of emerald- layered tea plantations, with fresh country air circulating pretty English villas and gardens.